You do not need a table saw to make a good-looking wooden picture frame. A miter box and hand saw will do the job, and a miter saw makes the same process faster. The trick is to keep the design simple and spend a little extra time on the layout.
This version uses straight, pre-sized stock and a backer that attaches from the rear. That means you can skip cutting a rabbet and still make a frame for a photo, print, or lightweight piece of art.
What you need
- Straight, dry wood stock at least 1 inch wide; select pieces that look good together.
- A tape measure or ruler, pencil, and combination square.
- A miter box with a fine-tooth hand saw, or a miter saw.
- Wood glue, painter's tape or a band clamp, and a few small clamps if you have them.
- Sandpaper and a finish suited to your wood and project.
- A backer, such as thin hardboard or mat board, plus the glazing and picture-hanging hardware you choose.
Before using any saw, follow its manufacturer instructions and wear appropriate eye protection. If you are new to miter cuts, buy enough stock for a few test pieces. They are cheaper than trying to rescue a short rail.
Start with the opening, not the outside size
Lay your photo or artwork face down and decide how much of its edge the frame should cover. For a simple frame, an opening about 1/8 inch smaller in each direction than the artwork gives the wood a small overlap all the way around.
For example, an 8-by-10-inch print can use an opening around 7 7/8 by 9 7/8 inches. Those are the short-point measurements for the inside edges of your rails. Mark that number clearly before you cut anything.
The first mistake most people make is measuring the outside dimensions of the frame. Do not. The inside opening controls whether your artwork fits, and the width of the stock determines the outside size.
Make test cuts before cutting your frame pieces
Set your miter box or saw to 45 degrees. Cut two short scraps, turn them together, and check the corner with your square. You want a closed corner with the faces flush. If the corner has a gap, correct the setup before touching your frame stock.
Once the test corner looks right, cut one 45-degree miter at the end of each rail. Put the show face of every rail in the same orientation as you cut. A small pencil mark on the back prevents the classic mistake of creating two left-hand corners.
Now measure from the short point of the first miter to the short point of the second. Cut the two long rails to the long opening measurement and the two short rails to the short opening measurement. Use a stop block when you can so opposing rails finish at exactly the same length.
Dry-fit the frame before opening the glue bottle
Arrange the rails around the artwork or a cardboard stand-in cut to the same size. Check three things: the opening is the size you planned, opposing rails match, and the frame sits flat without rocking.
If one corner is open, do not try to fill a large gap with glue. Recheck the cut and trim only if you have enough length to spare. Small corrections are normal. Big corrections are a reason to recut the rail.
Glue the miters with a simple clamping method
Put a thin, even coat of wood glue on both faces of each miter. Painter's tape can work as a light-duty clamp for a small frame: lay the pieces face down, tape the outside of each joint, fold the frame closed, and add tape across the final corner. A band clamp is another good option when you have one.
Tighten just enough to close the joints and bring the faces flush. Check the frame for square by measuring corner to corner in both directions. If the diagonal measurements match, the frame is square. Wipe away squeeze-out with a damp cloth before it hardens, then let the glue cure according to the glue manufacturer's directions.
Sand, finish, and add the backer
After the glue has cured, sand the joints gently. Start with a fine enough grit that you do not round over the crisp outside edges. Apply paint, stain, or a clear finish that fits the look you want, and let it cure as directed before assembling the frame.
For this no-table-saw version, place your glazing, art, and backer against the rear of the frame. Use picture-frame turn buttons, glazing points, or another hardware method intended for the thickness and weight of your assembly. Follow the hardware maker's installation instructions. A lightweight sawtooth hanger may suit a small frame; choose hanging hardware rated for the finished frame and wall surface.
Five mistakes that make a first frame harder than it needs to be
Cutting to the outside dimensions
The art will not fit correctly if you never establish the inside opening. Start there every time.
Skipping the test cuts
Four miters can magnify a small setup error. Two scrap cuts show you the problem before it wastes your good stock.
Mixing up corner orientation
Mark the back of each rail and keep the show face consistent. It takes seconds and saves a frustrating recut.
Trying to sand a bad joint into shape
Sanding can clean up a nearly flush joint. It cannot turn a wide miter gap into a strong, clean corner.
Rushing the finish or hardware
Let the glue and finish cure on their own schedule. Then install the backer and hanger with the frame lying flat, where you can keep everything aligned.
Where to go next
Once you have made one frame, try a wider profile, a painted finish, or a matched set for a gallery wall. For another measured small project, see how to make a wine box.