How to Build a Continuous Grain Wine Box
Looking for a creative way to store a special bottle of wine? These wine boxes are becoming a popular wedding ceremony trend and are a fun way to preserve and protect your wine! In this post I’ll walk you through how to build one yourself!
Tools Used:
Step 1: Wood Selection
For this wine box, I chose to use red oak. These can be made with just about any hardwood.
Step 2: Prep your Saw
I will be assembling the sides of this box using a 45 degree mitered cut and gluing all 4 sides together. To accomplish this it is critical that you get the angle set properly on your saw. I use a Wixey Digital Angle Gauge to verify that my miter gauge on my saw is accurate.
To set the angle, first Zero out the gauge by placing the angle gauge on your saw base and press the “Zero” button. Then move the gauge to your saw-blade (make sure the saw is unplugged) and confirm that the blade is indeed set to 45 degrees.
I use my Kobalt Miter Saw to cut the boards down to their rough size.
14 ½ by 3 ½
I want to achieve a continuous grain pattern when I assemble this box. To do this, confirm that you have a board long enough to get all 4 sides from. For this project I need a board that is (14 ½ x 2) + (3 ½ x 2) = 36 inches.
On the side of the board that you want to be the outside of the box, use a pencil and make a squiggly line along the board. This will help you identify how to match them up when assembling.
You’ll need a simple jig to make these cuts on the miter saw. Take a scrap piece of plywood or 1 x 12 and a 1 x 4 to make a jig that looks like this.
I assembled this jig with brad nails. It doesn’t have to be perfect as this will just be used as a reference for where we need to make our repeatable cuts.
Step 3: Cut the First Miter into the Jig
With the blade set to 45 degrees, cut the first miter into the jig. This cut will serve as a reference for lining up your cut piece.
Step 4: Mark Your Guide Lines on the Jig
To make sure that you are making your cuts at the proper length, you can measure and mark your guides directly on the jig. For the end pieces we’ll measure 3 ½ inches from the tip of the miter cut on the jig. For the side pieces we’ll measure 14 ½ inches from the tip of the miter cut on the jig.
Step 5: Make Your Cuts
Lay your cut piece with the good face down on the jig. Let the end of your board extend slightly past the jig. Cut your first miter off of the end of the board.
Rotate the board end to end. Do not flip the board. You want to keep the good face of your board facing down for every cut. Line up the end of the miter cut that you just made to the 3 ½ inch guide mark you made for the end pieces. Cut your miter.
Rotate the board again and align the 45 degree cut on the board with the 45 degree cut on the jig. The short ends of the miters should match up. This is your next cut.
Rotate the board and align the end of that miter cut to the mark on the jig at 14 ½ inches. Cut your miter.
Rotate the board again and align the 45 degree cut on the board with the 45 degree cut on the jig. The short ends of the miters should match up. This is your next cut.
Rotate the board and align the end of that miter cut to the mark on the jig at 14 ½ inches. Cut your miter.
You now have all 4 sides of the wine box!
Step 6: Test the Fit
Using a Band Clamp or painters tape, test the fit of the miters.
Step 7: Cut the Grooves for the Top and Base
The top and base of this wine box will be inset. To accomplish this you have to cut grooves into the top and bottom of each side. This will allow for the boards to lay flush on the top and bottom.
Set the Blade Height
I’m using ¾ inch thick wood for the top and bottom. Set the table saw blade height to ¾ inch using a combination square or ruler. You want to set your table saw fence to ½ inch. This will ensure that there is enough material left on your side pieces.
Make the Initial Cuts
Run each board through the saw. Make sure that the mitered cuts are always facing inward. If you make these cuts on the wrong side of the board it will ruin the piece and you’ll have to start over!
Repeat this for each board on both the top and the bottom of the piece.
Reset the Blade Height
Adjust the blade height to ½ inch and use one of the side boards as a reference to set your table saw fence. You want to align the board to remove only the material for where the top and bottom boards will rest.
Complete this cut for all sides on both the top and bottom.
Step 8: Assemble the Sides
Remember to use the reference lines you scribbled on the front of the board to help ensure that all of your pieces are assembled in the correct order.
Do another test fit of the pieces to make sure that everything lines up properly.
Disassemble and lay two pieces of painters tape down on your workspace. Make sure they are slightly larger than the total length of your box.
Lay one of the end pieces on the tape and align the side piece to the miter cut. Align the second end piece to that one and finally the last side piece to that one.
Apply wood glue to the joints and carefully fold the box together. If you have Band Clamps you can use those here to secure the box while it dries. If you do not have these clamps, the painters tape can hold it together while the glue dries.
Step 9: Cut Top and Base Boards
It’s now time to cut the boards for the top and the base down to size. I always recommend measuring the dimensions of the box and make your cuts slightly larger than what you measure. You can always trim a board down but if you cut it too short, you’ll have to start over with a new board.
I make the cut for the length of the board on my miter saw then move over to the table saw to make the cut for the width.
Test the fit and make any additional trim cuts if needed. You can also use a hand plane if you just need to take off a small amount of material to make it fit.
Step 10: Glue Up the Top and Base
Apply a small amount of glue to the groove cut outs. Place the top and base boards in place and secure with clamps. Follow the recommended dry times of the glue you are using before moving on to the next step.
Step 11: Cut the Lid
Once the box has fully dried you can move on to cutting the lid. Set your table saw blade to 1 ¼ inches. Carefully pass the box through the saw, rotating after each cut until you have completely cut through all sides of the box. You can now separate the lid from the box!
Step 12: Sand, Stain and Add Henges
As for any woodworking project there’s no working around a final sanding before completing a project. For the wine box I recommend sanding down to a 220 grit before applying any paint or stain.
After your finish has dried you can add the henges and any additional hardware you’d like to add!
Step by step instructions for building a continuous grain wine box!